Why Skin of Colour Needs Specialised Treatment and Products

Understanding the Unique Science Behind Melanin-Rich Skin and How to Care for it

When it comes to skincare, there is no such thing as one-size-fits-all. And yet, for far too long, skin of colour has been overlooked in both clinical research and mainstream beauty. The result? A wave of misinformation, under-treatment, and products that simply don’t meet the needs of melanin-rich skin. But things are changing — and it’s time we start having the conversation: Skin of colour is not only different; it’s exceptional. And it deserves skincare that is just as intelligent and intentional.

As an Aesthetic Doctor working closely with diverse skin tones, and as someone who understands the lived experience of skin of colour, I’m here to offer a science-backed, professional perspective — and a compassionate call to action. Whether you’re a practitioner, a beauty enthusiast, or simply someone who has felt unseen in the skincare aisle, this post is for you.

The Science of Melanin-Rich Skin

Skin of colour — which includes individuals of African, Asian, Middle Eastern, and Latin descent — contains higher levels of melanin, the pigment responsible for skin colour. But melanin is more than just pigment. It plays a critical role in how skin behaves, heals, and responds to environmental triggers.

Let’s break down a few key scientific differences:

• Thicker dermis and compact stratum corneum: Skin of colour tends to have a denser and more compact outer layer, which provides natural protection but also makes exfoliation more challenging and prone to hyperkeratosis (buildup).

• Greater sensitivity to inflammation: Contrary to popular belief, darker skin tones are not tougher. In fact, they are more reactive to inflammation — often presenting as post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), even from minor trauma like a pimple or over-exfoliation.

• Slower aging, but more uneven tone: While skin of colour benefits from greater protection against wrinkles (thanks to melanin’s photoprotective properties), it is more likely to struggle with uneven pigmentation, scarring, and textural changes if not treated correctly.

Why Conventional Products Can Do More Harm Than Good

Most over-the-counter skincare products — and unfortunately, many in-office treatments — were initially formulated based on research conducted on Fitzpatrick Skin Types I-III (fair to light skin). What this means is that formulas, actives, and strengths are often not tested for deeper skin tones, leading to a higher risk of irritation, chemical burns, and pigmentary issues in skin of colour.

Some common culprits include:

• Harsh acids or high concentrations of actives like glycolic acid or retinoids used without proper skin prep or support.

• Laser treatments that are not calibrated correctly for darker skin, leading to burns or rebound pigmentation.

• Over-reliance on bleaching agents that compromise the skin barrier and worsen pigmentation over time.

In short? The wrong product can not only fail — it can harm.

What Specialised Skincare for Skin of Colour Looks Like

Science, expertise, and empathy must meet when formulating for and treating skin of colour. Skincare should not only correct concerns, but preserve the integrity of the skin and respect its biological uniqueness.

Here’s what a thoughtful, evidence-based approach includes:

1. Gentle, Strategic Exfoliation

Instead of aggressive peels, opt for PHA-based exfoliants, enzyme masks, or lactic acid — all of which provide mild exfoliation without triggering inflammation or disrupting the barrier.

2. Targeted Treatments for Pigmentation

Use niacinamide, kojic acid, arbutin, and azelaic acid — ingredients proven to reduce dark spots without bleaching or irritation.

3. Barrier Repair as a Priority

Ceramides, peptides, and omega-rich oils help maintain the lipid barrier, reduce TEWL ( trans-epidermal water loss), and allow the skin to function optimally.

4. Sun Protection Is Non-Negotiable

Yes — even for deeper skin tones. Daily broad-spectrum SPF 30+ prevents pigment from worsening and protects against photoaging. The key is finding formulas that blend well without a grey cast.

5. In-Clinic Treatments That Respect Melanin

Not all treatments are suitable for melanin-rich skin. At New You Medical Aesthetics, we tailor every treatment plan using advanced knowledge of ethnic dermatology — from pigment-safe chemical peels to microneedling and radiofrequency. No lasers without proper consultation. Ever.

A Message to Melanin-Rich Beauties: Your Skin is Not a Problem to Solve

Too often, skincare conversations around darker skin are rooted in “fixing” — whether it’s lightening, brightening, or smoothing. But I want to flip that narrative: Your skin is not flawed. Your melanin is not a liability. It is power, history, resilience, and beauty.

But that doesn’t mean we should ignore real skin concerns — hyperpigmentation, acne scars, or uneven tone are valid and deserve compassionate care. You deserve products that work, without compromise. You deserve expert guidance. And most importantly, you deserve to feel seen.

Final Thoughts: The Future is Inclusive, and It’s Already Here

As an Aesthetic Doctor and founder of New You Skin Institute and New You Medical Aesthetics, I am deeply committed to redefining standards in skincare education, treatment, and formulation for skin of colour. With Beyond Skin Deep, our platform continues to elevate the science, stories, and solutions for melanin-rich skin.

The journey to radiant skin isn’t about chasing perfection. It’s about understanding your unique biology, treating it with respect, and making empowered, informed choices. And with the right knowledge and support? The glow is inevitable.

Want to Learn More?

• Book a consultation with us at New You Medical Aesthetics

• Download our free guide: The Melanin-Safe Skincare Checklist

• Watch our upcoming Beyond Skin Deep talk: “The Truth About Skin of Colour and What the Industry Gets Wrong”

You are not an afterthought. You are the blueprint.

Let’s build skincare that reflects that.